Preparing Your Quilt Top (Backing and Batting) for Best Longarm Results

Are you super excited to get amazing longarm quilting done on your top, but you don’t know what to do to get it prepped? If so, this is the post for you! I am going to help you get your top, backing, and batting ready so you get the best longarm quilting results. It is so easy that you can do it in 10 steps! At the end of the post, you can sign up for my newsletter and get an awesome checklist. The checklist will help make sure your top, backing, and batting are in tip-top shape for your longarmer.

1) Measure Top

This part is super important! Please don’t assume that the measurements of your top are the same as what is listed in your pattern. You need to measure your top so you know exactly how much backing and batting you need to provide.

There are a couple of ways you can do this. In the pictures below I laid the top out flat on the floor. I took my measuring tape and measured straight down the middle; both horizontally and vertically. Write these measurements down for later!

Lay the measuring tape down the center vertically and take the measurement.

Lay the measuring tape down the center horizontally and take the measurement.

This top measure 48.25 inches long.

This quilt top measures 36.5 inches wide.

Another way you can do this is by folding the top in half lengthwise, the measuring from the fold to the edge. Take this measurement and multiply by two to get the total top measurement. Do this for the length and width of the top. This quilt top was 36.5” x 48.25”.

2) Mark Which Side is the Top of your Top

If your quilt is directional, or you want one side to be the top, please designate this. This is extra important if the quilting design we pick is directional. I want to make sure you don’t end up with an upside down quilt. The easiest way to mark the top is with a sticky note or a piece of masking tape. I also like to add a pin to make sure it is extra secure.

This quilt had a pretty clear top. I marked the top with masking tape because it does not leave a residue on the quilt. I added a pin to make sure it stayed secure during shipping.

3) Press Seams on the Top and the Backing

Honestly, pressing seams is one of my least favorite steps of quilting. I ALWAYS burn myself. However, it is super important to get amazing longarm quilting results. It doesn’t matter if your seams are pressed open or to the side; they just need to be flat. This helps reduce the bulk I have to quilt over, and it makes the final quilt look more smooth. If one of your seams is twisted, instead of pressed, it may end up looking like a lump in the final quilt. This applies to the seams in your quilt top and your quilt back. For the back, it is easiest to get a wide backing, then you don’t have to worry about seams at all!

4) Cut Threads From Back of the Top

I know this seems tedious and super annoying, but if you don’t do it, you may end up being able to see the loose thread through the top of your finished quilt. I used to never do this. I had a thread show through one of my quilt tops and it made it look like a fabric bleed. I was super bummed that I worked so hard on the quilt just to have a stupid thread showing through. There are ways to remove the thread after the fact, but it is such a pain. At minimum, cut all of the loose threads that are near white fabric.

Here is my before picture. This quilt did not have many strings before, but there are some on the pink fabric right next to the white.

And after! I trimmed the pink strings and the string on the purple fabric. I also pressed the seams so they are way less wavy. This will result in some smooth quilting!

5) Stay Stitch Around the Edges of the Top

This isn’t absolutely necessary, but it will make your longarmer so happy! To do this you use a normal stitch length and stitch around all of the edges of your quilt, about 1/8” from the edge. The stay stitching does a couple of things: (1) it reduces the likelihood of the quilt warping and (2) it makes sure all of the seams around your edges are secure. I don’t know how many times I finish a quilt and the edge seams are all splitting open. It makes me so mad! I have started back-stitching at the beginning and end of every seam. I still end up with some open edge seams! This is the final step to prep your top!

The stay stitching is a regular length stitch about 1/8” away from the edge this will make sure all of your edge seams are secure and keep your quilt from falling apart!

6) Square up Backing

To square up your backing, fold it so that the selvedges meet and the fabric is nice and smooth. You then line up a line on your ruler with the folded edge. Use your ruler to cut about an inch or so off the side. Do this on both edges of the fabric. This ensures that your fabric is square; meaning the corners are all 90 degrees.

Fold the fabric, matching up the selvedges. Make sure it doesn’t have wrinkles or folds.

Line up the fold with a line on your ruler. You can use any line. I usually cut off about an inch or so.

Cut the fabric from fold to selvedge to create a square corner. Repeat on other end

This is important because it ensure that when the backing is loaded, it will not end up wonky and sideways. If there is a design on the backing fabric, it will make sure it does not look wonky in your final quilt. Additionally, this ensures that when I get to the bottom of the quilt, there is still backing fabric available to be quilted.

7) Measure the Backing

THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP! You need to make sure your backing is 8” wider and longer than your quilt top. In the picture above my quilt top was 36.5” x 48.25”. That means my backing needed to be at least 44.5” x 56.25”. Measure the backing in the same way as you measure the top. In the example below I used the second method where I folded the backing, measured from the folded to the edges, then doubled that measurement. My backing measured at 54” x 60” and was not directional, so I had enough.

With fabric folded in half, measure from the fold to the end

With the fabric folded in the other direction, measure from the fold to the end.

This quilt backing was 54 inches long (27” x 2).

This backing was 60 inches wide (30” x 2).

I need the extra fabric to load your quilt onto my frame. If there is not enough extra fabric, I will contact you and you can either send me a new backing that is bigger, or I can sew additional fabric onto the back for a fee. Ultimately, the extra fabric should not show on your quilt, but it will give me the room I need to load it onto my frame.

8) Mark the Top of the Backing

Just like with the top, if you want a specific side of your backing to be the top, you need to mark it. If you pieced your backing and you want it centered with the quilt top, this may cost extra. It is extremely difficult to center it in both directions. I can only promise that the backing will be centered in one direction. Your backing is now ready to go!

9) Measure Your Batting (Or Buy From Me)

Just like the backing, I need some extra batting to ensure I can load the quilt sandwich on the machine appropriately. I also like to have a little extra in case there is any shifting or the batting is not cut straight. If you purchase your batting from me, I will make sure there is enough to load it properly. If you send your own high quality batting you need to make sure it is at least 6” wider and longer than your quilt top.

10) Place Everything in a Plastic Bag Before You Ship It

This is the final step! Once your top, backing, and batting are ready, fold them up and place them in a plastic bag. Something as simple as a garbage bag will work for this. This is only really important if you are shipping your quilt top to me. The plastic bag will protect the materials if it rains or snows and your package is exposed to the wet weather. We want to make sure everything stays nice and dry!

Bonus Tip: If you want to make your longarmer super happy, make sure your backing seam is horizontal. It isn’t required, but it reduces the bulkiness of the backing when it is rolled up on the backing bar on the longarm frame.

I know this is a lot of information to take in. This is why I created a checklist for you! The left side of the checklist reminds you why it is important, and the right side is an actual checklist you can use while prepping your materials. Use the form below to sign up for my newsletter, and the checklist will be sent to you automatically!

Let me know if you have any questions! I would be happy to answer them!

Later Gators!

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